Nieuwe Instituut
Nieuwe Instituut

Sonneveld House

The Hoodie

30 November 2019 - 22 August 2020

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Open Call Hoodies

This open, adaptable installation in The Hoodie exhibition features a range of contemporary hoodies. All of them were lent to us by the people who bought or made them following an open call. See the hoodies and read their owners' stories below.

Items on loan from members of the public at The Hoodie. Photo: Het Nieuwe Instituut.

Joycy Paixão Fortes, also known as designer Dress Joycy, sent in two of her own creations in response to our open call for hoodies. She also made this in-depth vlog about her experience of the exhibition. In it, she gives us a lively virtual impression of The Hoodie and talks about the ideas and inspirations behind her own hoodie designs, which are also featured below.

"My designs often involve a lot of research and storytelling, but I don't always have a way to share those stories. That's why I'm so proud to see my hoodies in the exhibition. Museums don't only tell the story that is clear at first sight... It's not about being right, but about starting a conversation."

Chinouk Filique de Miranda

Kendrick Lamar - DAMN. United States Tour (Kung Fu Kenny) Hoodie, Spring 2017

Hoodies from the personal archive of Chinouk Filique de Miranda.

"Bought because Kendrik Lamar is basically the GOAT, and this hoodie portrays that without having to add much. Plus, it was one of the first tour merchandise items that I found understated enough to not make you look like a groupie, but at the same time makes it clear what category of music you affiliate yourself with and what speaks to you."

Chinouk Filique de Miranda

Adidas Originals Hooded dress, Autumn/Winter 2008

"Had to save up for ages to wear this for my 17th birthday (haha): the first time I came across a 'girls version' of the hoodie. I don't wear it any more, but can't get rid of it either, probably because it was such an investment at the time, and it has a lot of sentimental value."

Chinouk Filique de Miranda

Carhartt, Anorak Camo Green/Carhartt Orange, c. 2011

"This was one of the first times I bought an oversized menswear hoodie, thinking it would be good for going out at night and feeling safe. In the end I liked the fit so much that since then I only ever buy men's coats/hoodies/sweaters."

Thijs Gouwerok

Shania Twain, NOW Tour Leopard hoodie, 2018

Shania Twain hoodie, 2018

"I bought this Shania Twain hoodie at her concert on 11 October 2018 in Ziggo Dome, during the NOW tour. The design with the trademark Shania leopard print is based on the video clip That Don't Impress Me Much."

Farida Sedoc

Hosselaer "Hairitage" Hoodie, 2015

"Hair plays a significant part in society when it comes to status and identity. It's a way to identify someone's social status in terms of age, death, ethnicity, fertility, gender, marital status, religion, social rank and wealth. The Ladies hoodie series portrays a variety of elaborate hair styles, together forming a matriarchal community called Freetown, by the artist Farida Sedoc also known as HOSSELAER."

Emirhan Akın

Reflect, Remember My Name, 2018

Remember My Name hoodie

"In 2017, a brand based in Istanbul called Reflect asked me to create a line that emerged from the urgent situation of displaced people from Syria who happened to live in Istanbul as refugees. One of the results was this hoodie, called 'Remember My Name'. On February 4, 2012, Mazhar Omar Tayyara, a young Syrian journalist-activist was killed during the Homs Massacre. One of the victims of the tragedy, Mazhar was recording himself before joining the protests and in one of them he said that he wants people to remember him and his friends. These profound words resonated with me for a long time and I wanted to dedicate this piece to him, in an attempt to keep his message alive. The long zipper that encloses the wearer's face represents the shroud in Islamic culture, which, in one way, stands for the all people who suffered and lost their lives during the civil war and, on the other hand, the others who remained blindfolded and silent."

Amy Wu

Thunderclap hoodie, 2019

"Thunderclap is a steganographic zine that camouflages the streets of Beijing. It piggybacks on fashion accessories to publicly distribute the suppressed writings of Chinese anarcho-feminist, He-Yin Zhen (1886-1920). The ribbons and embroidered patches contain translated English quotes taken from He-Yin's essays and are nested around the QR code. When passers-by scan the code, they can download her original Chinese writing. The work is designed to be hidden in plain sight on the streets of Beijing by co-opting shanzhai fashion, the Chinese phenomenon that features nonsense English together with a QR code, as a covert system to publish sensitive knowledge originally destined to circulate within China."

Frieden Athletics

Frieden Athletics, Messenger of Peace, 2019

Frieden Athletics ‘Messenger of Peace’ hoodie (2019)

"We designed this hoodie to stand for peace in a time that needs it most. The hood is a reference to the United Nations' iconic Blue Helmets, the peacekeeping force, and its base colors to the continents united by Olympism. With this hoodie, we are committing to a statement in making peace more visible in youthwear and in the world."

Maria Gil Mendoza

Suéter de jerga, Mexico, 2016

Suéter de jerga hoodie, Mexico 2016

"My hoodie is brand-less. It was made by Mexican artisans in 2016, and it was purchased in the centre of Zacatecas, Mexico. In Mexico artisanal products often come with a negative social connotation, or are just seen as souvenirs. I have always loved crafts and my roots, especially since I moved to the Netherlands. Every time I wear it, all social or political differences disappear; it just reminds me of home. It's like a hug, a hug from home."

Mohamed Chajid

The New Originals (TNO), Creatives are the new Athletes (CATNA) hoodie, purchased in 2019

Creatives are the new Athletes (CATNA) Brand name: The New Originals (TNO), 2019

"Hoodies create a sense of comfort, at least for me. It's just clothing, in the end. However, it does have meaning or value, so much climbing Maslow's hierarchy to the top, self actualization through creative activities. The statement on the back says it all: creatives are the new athletes; Virgil is the new MJ(23), Samuel Ross the new Tony Hawk and Daniel Arsham the new Ronaldinho."

Erik Groene

IFFR Green Hoodie, 2014

"I've been a fan of the IFFR (Rotterdam International Film Festival) for years, and have a wardrobe full of their festival T-shirts. Mainly shirts that I was given as a volunteer. They're all great shirts, with variations on the IFFR tiger emblem. I got this hoodie from my girlfriend Lian, who worked for the festival's merchandising department in 2014. She was given a choice of anything from the collection and chose this hoodie, For me. Which was very sweet."

Black Lotus

Embroidered Logo Hoodie, Unsoiled 2020

Black Lotus hoodie, 2020.

"Sustainability is very important to Black Lotus. All our products are made under fair conditions and we don't use any animal-derived materials. We also try to keep the use of synthetic materials to an absolute minimum (for example, our bags are made of vegan leather and upcycled material). What makes this hoodie so special? It's part of the A/W2019 collection. It's made of 100% cotton, produced under fair conditions in China. (We think transparency is very important so we include this information on the washing instructions label with the norm 'made under good conditions in China'.) To keep waste to a minimum the hoodie is only produced in one size, with an unique cut that should fit all. Suitable for men and women. On the back is a large, emroidered logo, which you find on the rest of our range. This makes the brand recognisible in an exclusive way."

Dress Joycy

Black and white Mud Cloth print hoodie

"The Mud Cloth print (also known as_ bogolan_) is from Mali. The inspiration behind the print came from my many visits to the store Kaarta Imports & Fabrics in New York, run by immigrants from Mali. Since my visits the store has been featured twice on Netflix (Iris Apfel documentary and Abstract: The Art of Design, Ruth Carter) and its accessories were featured in the movie The Black Panther. I chose a black and white print as it symbolizes the cultural heritage of modern people who are black and white. I'm Cape Verdean. We are the oldest creole nation and a study revealed we are the most mixed people. Having the world in my DNA gives me a cosmopolitan face and allows me to connect with everybody."

Soundtrack: Michael Jackson - Black or White, Sefyu - En Noir et Blanc

Dress Joycy

Fanm Fortes (Strong Women) hoodie

"This hoodie is inspired by the zouk song FANM FO, which means 'Strong Women' in French creole. My last name Paixão Fortes means 'strong passion' in Portuguese, so I created a cultural patchwork marrying French creole with my name to symbolize the love and resemblances that unite us. Our ancestors (in French Caribbean and Cape Verde) carried water on their heads, creating a legacy of strong women who walked before us, and symbolize the long road they walked but also how far we have come in our journey (especially as immigrants). My long journey took me to Martinique and Guadeloupe, where I discovered that the first black person kidnapped and brought to the French West Indies by the Portuguese colonizers was a black guy they named João. So beyond the physical and cultural resemblance I share a blood bond with the French Caribbean, and therefore we are of the same family."

Soundtrack: Cesaria Evora - Sodade, Jeux de Dames - Fanm Fo

Carmen Kemmink

HOW DARE YOU hoodie

HOW DARE YOU is a Recycled Label & Climate Support Project. An initiative of fashion photographer Carmen Kemmink, inspired by the words of Greta Thunberg. Over the coming year, the HOW DARE YOU team will capture the spirit of a generation. From festivals and schools to public parks and squares, young people in a HOW DARE YOU hoodie or t-shirt, will be photographed and sharing their thoughts, feelings and ideas in relation to the changing climate. The final photo-video exhibition takes place in October 2020, during the Climate Adaptation Summit. 100% of the profit is donated to a climate goal chosen by a jury of the young people involved.From March 2020 the label can be purchased at various locations in Amsterdam and other cities. Everything is printed on Used & Left Over Stock supported by Kiloshop Amsterdam.

Sylvia

MSA hoodie

"I have a hoodie that I never wear. It belonged to my late husband, who died two years ago of Multiple System Atrophy (MSA), a fatal neurological condition that most people have never heard of. My husband was ill for five years. I've never worn hoodies, I don't find them very comfortable. This one is still in my cupboard. I can't bring myself to get rid of it. When I came to see the Hoodie exhibition I thought that this hoodie could have a role to play in the exhibition, as an example of how hoodies are used to support good causes. Who knows, perhaps it will help raise some awareness for MSA, which is often mis-diagnosed as Parkinson's disease."

Chinouk Filique de Miranda

Kendrick Lamar - DAMN. United States Tour (Kung Fu Kenny) Hoodie, Spring 2017

Hoodies from the personal archive of Chinouk Filique de Miranda.

"Bought because Kendrik Lamar is basically the GOAT, and this hoodie portrays that without having to add much. Plus, it was one of the first tour merchandise items that I found understated enough to not make you look like a groupie, but at the same time makes it clear what category of music you affiliate yourself with and what speaks to you."

Chinouk Filique de Miranda

Adidas Originals Hooded dress, Autumn/Winter 2008

"Had to save up for ages to wear this for my 17th birthday (haha): the first time I came across a 'girls version' of the hoodie. I don't wear it any more, but can't get rid of it either, probably because it was such an investment at the time, and it has a lot of sentimental value."

Chinouk Filique de Miranda

Carhartt, Anorak Camo Green/Carhartt Orange, c. 2011

"This was one of the first times I bought an oversized menswear hoodie, thinking it would be good for going out at night and feeling safe. In the end I liked the fit so much that since then I only ever buy men's coats/hoodies/sweaters."

Thijs Gouwerok

Shania Twain, NOW Tour Leopard hoodie, 2018

Shania Twain hoodie, 2018

"I bought this Shania Twain hoodie at her concert on 11 October 2018 in Ziggo Dome, during the NOW tour. The design with the trademark Shania leopard print is based on the video clip That Don't Impress Me Much."

Farida Sedoc

Hosselaer "Hairitage" Hoodie, 2015

"Hair plays a significant part in society when it comes to status and identity. It's a way to identify someone's social status in terms of age, death, ethnicity, fertility, gender, marital status, religion, social rank and wealth. The Ladies hoodie series portrays a variety of elaborate hair styles, together forming a matriarchal community called Freetown, by the artist Farida Sedoc also known as HOSSELAER."

Emirhan Akın

Reflect, Remember My Name, 2018

Remember My Name hoodie

"In 2017, a brand based in Istanbul called Reflect asked me to create a line that emerged from the urgent situation of displaced people from Syria who happened to live in Istanbul as refugees. One of the results was this hoodie, called 'Remember My Name'. On February 4, 2012, Mazhar Omar Tayyara, a young Syrian journalist-activist was killed during the Homs Massacre. One of the victims of the tragedy, Mazhar was recording himself before joining the protests and in one of them he said that he wants people to remember him and his friends. These profound words resonated with me for a long time and I wanted to dedicate this piece to him, in an attempt to keep his message alive. The long zipper that encloses the wearer's face represents the shroud in Islamic culture, which, in one way, stands for the all people who suffered and lost their lives during the civil war and, on the other hand, the others who remained blindfolded and silent."

Amy Wu

Thunderclap hoodie, 2019

"Thunderclap is a steganographic zine that camouflages the streets of Beijing. It piggybacks on fashion accessories to publicly distribute the suppressed writings of Chinese anarcho-feminist, He-Yin Zhen (1886-1920). The ribbons and embroidered patches contain translated English quotes taken from He-Yin's essays and are nested around the QR code. When passers-by scan the code, they can download her original Chinese writing. The work is designed to be hidden in plain sight on the streets of Beijing by co-opting shanzhai fashion, the Chinese phenomenon that features nonsense English together with a QR code, as a covert system to publish sensitive knowledge originally destined to circulate within China."

Frieden Athletics

Frieden Athletics, Messenger of Peace, 2019

Frieden Athletics ‘Messenger of Peace’ hoodie (2019)

"We designed this hoodie to stand for peace in a time that needs it most. The hood is a reference to the United Nations' iconic Blue Helmets, the peacekeeping force, and its base colors to the continents united by Olympism. With this hoodie, we are committing to a statement in making peace more visible in youthwear and in the world."

Maria Gil Mendoza

Suéter de jerga, Mexico, 2016

Suéter de jerga hoodie, Mexico 2016

"My hoodie is brand-less. It was made by Mexican artisans in 2016, and it was purchased in the centre of Zacatecas, Mexico. In Mexico artisanal products often come with a negative social connotation, or are just seen as souvenirs. I have always loved crafts and my roots, especially since I moved to the Netherlands. Every time I wear it, all social or political differences disappear; it just reminds me of home. It's like a hug, a hug from home."

Mohamed Chajid

The New Originals (TNO), Creatives are the new Athletes (CATNA) hoodie, purchased in 2019

Creatives are the new Athletes (CATNA) Brand name: The New Originals (TNO), 2019

"Hoodies create a sense of comfort, at least for me. It's just clothing, in the end. However, it does have meaning or value, so much climbing Maslow's hierarchy to the top, self actualization through creative activities. The statement on the back says it all: creatives are the new athletes; Virgil is the new MJ(23), Samuel Ross the new Tony Hawk and Daniel Arsham the new Ronaldinho."

Erik Groene

IFFR Green Hoodie, 2014

"I've been a fan of the IFFR (Rotterdam International Film Festival) for years, and have a wardrobe full of their festival T-shirts. Mainly shirts that I was given as a volunteer. They're all great shirts, with variations on the IFFR tiger emblem. I got this hoodie from my girlfriend Lian, who worked for the festival's merchandising department in 2014. She was given a choice of anything from the collection and chose this hoodie, For me. Which was very sweet."

Black Lotus

Embroidered Logo Hoodie, Unsoiled 2020

Black Lotus hoodie, 2020.

"Sustainability is very important to Black Lotus. All our products are made under fair conditions and we don't use any animal-derived materials. We also try to keep the use of synthetic materials to an absolute minimum (for example, our bags are made of vegan leather and upcycled material). What makes this hoodie so special? It's part of the A/W2019 collection. It's made of 100% cotton, produced under fair conditions in China. (We think transparency is very important so we include this information on the washing instructions label with the norm 'made under good conditions in China'.) To keep waste to a minimum the hoodie is only produced in one size, with an unique cut that should fit all. Suitable for men and women. On the back is a large, emroidered logo, which you find on the rest of our range. This makes the brand recognisible in an exclusive way."

Dress Joycy

Black and white Mud Cloth print hoodie

"The Mud Cloth print (also known as_ bogolan_) is from Mali. The inspiration behind the print came from my many visits to the store Kaarta Imports & Fabrics in New York, run by immigrants from Mali. Since my visits the store has been featured twice on Netflix (Iris Apfel documentary and Abstract: The Art of Design, Ruth Carter) and its accessories were featured in the movie The Black Panther. I chose a black and white print as it symbolizes the cultural heritage of modern people who are black and white. I'm Cape Verdean. We are the oldest creole nation and a study revealed we are the most mixed people. Having the world in my DNA gives me a cosmopolitan face and allows me to connect with everybody."

Soundtrack: Michael Jackson - Black or White, Sefyu - En Noir et Blanc

Dress Joycy

Fanm Fortes (Strong Women) hoodie

"This hoodie is inspired by the zouk song FANM FO, which means 'Strong Women' in French creole. My last name Paixão Fortes means 'strong passion' in Portuguese, so I created a cultural patchwork marrying French creole with my name to symbolize the love and resemblances that unite us. Our ancestors (in French Caribbean and Cape Verde) carried water on their heads, creating a legacy of strong women who walked before us, and symbolize the long road they walked but also how far we have come in our journey (especially as immigrants). My long journey took me to Martinique and Guadeloupe, where I discovered that the first black person kidnapped and brought to the French West Indies by the Portuguese colonizers was a black guy they named João. So beyond the physical and cultural resemblance I share a blood bond with the French Caribbean, and therefore we are of the same family."

Soundtrack: Cesaria Evora - Sodade, Jeux de Dames - Fanm Fo

Carmen Kemmink

HOW DARE YOU hoodie

HOW DARE YOU is a Recycled Label & Climate Support Project. An initiative of fashion photographer Carmen Kemmink, inspired by the words of Greta Thunberg. Over the coming year, the HOW DARE YOU team will capture the spirit of a generation. From festivals and schools to public parks and squares, young people in a HOW DARE YOU hoodie or t-shirt, will be photographed and sharing their thoughts, feelings and ideas in relation to the changing climate. The final photo-video exhibition takes place in October 2020, during the Climate Adaptation Summit. 100% of the profit is donated to a climate goal chosen by a jury of the young people involved.From March 2020 the label can be purchased at various locations in Amsterdam and other cities. Everything is printed on Used & Left Over Stock supported by Kiloshop Amsterdam.

Sylvia

MSA hoodie

"I have a hoodie that I never wear. It belonged to my late husband, who died two years ago of Multiple System Atrophy (MSA), a fatal neurological condition that most people have never heard of. My husband was ill for five years. I've never worn hoodies, I don't find them very comfortable. This one is still in my cupboard. I can't bring myself to get rid of it. When I came to see the Hoodie exhibition I thought that this hoodie could have a role to play in the exhibition, as an example of how hoodies are used to support good causes. Who knows, perhaps it will help raise some awareness for MSA, which is often mis-diagnosed as Parkinson's disease."

If you would like to lend your hoodie for the duration of the exhibition and tell your story, please speak to a member of staff or email thehoodie@hetnieuweinstituut.nl with an image of your hoodie and a short explanatory text. Read more about the open call here.

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