The Hoodie
30 November 2019 - 22 August 2020
This exhibition considers the role of a fashion garment as a socio-political carrier. The hoodie is a staple of contemporary dress, hyped as a trend and a must-have item; but elsewhere it is also a topic of moral panic, banned by certain institutions and dissected by the media as an emblem of inequality, crime or deviancy. While the hoodie provides safety and comfort for some wearers, others will face prejudice and discrimination, preferring to put the hood down in public. This inequality can be traced back to the question of who can wear a hoodie without hindrance, which is once again reconstituted by Covid-19 - the same applies to any form of head or face covering, even if it is 'acceptable' from a medical point of view.Curated by writer and curator Lou Stoppard.
From left to right: grey ‘TRAYVON’ hoodie issued and sold by the Trayvon Martin Foundation; Sasha Huber’s portrait of Trayvon Martin from the ongoing ‘Shooting Stars’ series; and Devan Shimoyama’s work ‘February II’ (2019), named after the month Martin was born, in the exhibition ‘The Hoodie’ at Het Nieuwe Instituut, 01/12/2019 – 12/04/2020. Photo: Johannes Schwartz.
Devan Shimoyama, February II, 2019. Courtesy of De Buck Gallery, New York, NY and The Alison Katz Wolfson Family Collection, New York, NY; Aspen, CO. The Hoodie, 2019. Photo Johannes Schwartz.
Yohji Yamamoto, Sweater dress, c.1990. Collection of the Modemuseum Hasselt. Bag Carrier Cap, 1900 - 1940. Collection of the Museum Rotterdam. Cream-coloured hood, 1950-1970. Collection of the Museum Rotterdam. The Hoodie, 2019. Photo Johannes Schwartz.
Aitor Throup, Ganesh Hoody, 2008. Redevelopment of the original Ganesh Hoody featured in Throup’s 2006 collection ‘When Football Hooligans Become Hindu Gods’. RECONSTRUCT, SHRTSKRT HOODIE SKIRT, Retrograde Orbit collection Spring/Summer 2019. Raf Simons, Autumn/Winter 1997. Courtesy of David Casavant Archive. Raf Simons, Autumn/Winter 2004. Courtesy of David Casavant Archive. The Hoodie, 2019. Photo Johannes Schwartz.
Bogomir Doringer, The Hoodie, 2019. Editing Rafael Kozdron. Sound design Michael Bucuzzo. AI GAN by Selam-X. Research in collaboration with Lou Stoppard. Commissioned by Het Nieuwe Instituut. Funded by Mondriaan Fonds. Photo Johannes Schwartz.
The hoodie tells many stories that define our times - tales of social inequality, youth culture, subculture, police brutality, racism, privacy, fear and, in turn, style. With its roots in sports clothing and workwear, the hoodie as we know it today was popularised by Champion in the 1930s as a practical solution for workmen. It is now, arguably, western fashion's last truly political garment - a garment that can incite fear, jealously, camaraderie and even fury in others - as well as being a garment you can lose your life by wearing.
The lingering question posed by the hoodie is simply: 'Who enjoys the right to wear one without challenge?' (The New York Times)
The hoodie sparks a range of emotions, communicating all manner of social and cultural ideas and nuances depending on the gender, geography, age, conduct and ethnicity of the wearer and, in turn, the prejudices and politics of the viewer. To some it is a clothing solution and nothing more. To others, its complexities are unavoidable. Based on the particular context, the hoodie can be both boring or iconic, bourgeois or rebellious, provide a safe shelter or trigger aggression, generate invisibility or privacy or make an explicit statement; you will find it on the streets, on sports tracks, on the catwalk and in the office.
Open Call
Het Nieuwe Instituut is looking for hoodies! In addition to unique pieces from renowned artists and brands, we also want to share the story of your hoodie in the exhibition!
Open Call
Het Nieuwe Instituut is looking for hoodies! In addition to unique pieces from renowned artists and brands, we also want to share the story of your hoodie in the exhibition!
CommissionHet Nieuwe Instituut
CuratorLou Stoppard
Exhibition DesignStudio L A (Arna Mackic & Lorien Beijaert)
Graphic DesignInes Cox
On-site Programme, Research & AdviceConcrete Blossom/Gyonne Goedhoop, Malique Mohamud, Giovanni Nobre, Cye Wong-Loi-Sing
Research & Advice Chinouk Filique de Miranda