World Expo Osaka 2025
For the Dutch Pavilion, a curtain is developed by the Ura collaborative project: Mae Engelgeer and weavers from Fujiyoshida.
Fujiyoshida is a high-elevation city nestled at the foot of Mount Fuji’s “reverse side”, or ura in Japanese, in Yamanashi Prefecture. It boasts a rich history and longstanding tradition of unique textile design and manufacturing. Fujiyoshida’s location, altitude and distance from major waterways and transport routes has shaped the development of its textile industry, which is renowned for its exceptionally high-quality lightweight fabrics. Because these textiles were easy to transport on horseback and valuable even in small quantities, artisans in Fujiyoshida refined intricate techniques using extremely fine yarns, such as silk, to produce superior lightweight fabrics.
When designing the fabric for the pavilion, the team sought to incorporate key elements and representations rooted in this rich heritage. Engelgeer’s process began with research into local archival designs, which, at first glance, appear to be layered compositions. However, this effect is achieved through skilful weaving and colouring rather than through actual layers. Engelgeer wanted to highlight the diversity of textiles made in Fujiyoshida, combining deadstock fabrics with specially woven and adapted textiles. By focusing on existing designs and adopting a circular approach, she assembled these elements into a new creation.
The design deconstructs this visual semblance of layering and transforms it into actual layers that enable the act of veiling and unveiling. The result references the unseen, often hidden qualities of kimono linings, which reveal themselves only under specific conditions or circumstances.
About
Mae Engelgeer’s passion for textile design began in her early studies and led to the founding of her studio in 2013. She experiments with traditional techniques, blending subtle colour palettes, patterns and textures to create harmonious compositions. Her designs are known for their luxurious tactility and modern aesthetic. As well as developing her own collections, she collaborates globally on textile products, furniture, material explorations and large-scale installations.
The Ura collaborative project was launched in 2023 with the support of the Yamanashi Prefecture Government and Fujiyoshida Town Hall. This project aims to revitalise the local textile industry, positioning it as a significant and forward-thinking presence in the international design community. By showcasing the work of local weavers to a global audience and facilitating collaborations between international designers and Fujiyoshida’s artisans, the aim is to unlock the immense potential of these partnerships. Together, they are exploring innovations and new applications for the delicately woven textiles of Fujiyoshida.